Learning how to wire a power point in Australia isn’t just about learning how to run a cable and screw in a faceplate. It requires strict compliance with national electrical standards, proper certification, and can only legally be carried out by a licensed electrician. In this guide, we cover everything you need to know—from legal requirements to installation types and costs—so you can make informed decisions for your home or business.
Important: DIY power point installation is illegal and unsafe in Australia. Always hire a licensed electrician.
Quick Summary
- Installing a power point in Australia must comply with AS/NZS 3000 and can only be performed by a licensed electrician.
- Key steps include planning outlet locations and loads, isolating the circuit, preparing the wall, running 2.5 mm² TPS cable, terminating conductors correctly (brown to active, blue to neutral, green/yellow to earth), testing polarity and RCD protection, and issuing a Certificate of Electrical Safety.
- Typical costs range from $100 to $550 per point (plus labour, materials and call-out fees), with additional surcharges for complex wall types or long cable runs.
- Installation methods differ by wall construction (brick, plasterboard, timber, cavity, metal stud), with specific tools and protections required.
- Various outlet types—from single and double GPOs to weatherproof, USB-integrated, industrial and smart points—each have unique standards and use cases.
How to Wire a Power Point (Licensed Electricians Only)
What You’ll Need
- Measuring tape and spirit level
- Planning diagram or sketch
- Stud finder or inspection endoscope
- Wall boxes, faceplates and cable clamps
- Hole saw (≈75 mm), jab saw or chisel
- Plaster-depth rings (for flush mounting)
- Hammer drill with SDS masonry bits (for brick/concrete)
- Rawl plugs, masonry anchors or drywall anchors
- 2.5 mm² twin-and-earth (TPS) cable
- Rigid PVC conduit and fittings (if required)
- Insulated cable clips or staples
- Lockout/tagout kit
- Non-contact voltage tester
- Two-pole voltage tester or multimeter
- Insulated gloves and safety glasses
- Calibrated torque screwdriver (0.8–1.2 Nm)
- Socket tester and RCD tester
- Megohmmeter (for insulation resistance test)
- Vacuum or brush for clean-up
Step 1: Plan the Installation
Before touching any wiring, map out exactly where and how many power points you need, and make sure the circuit can handle the load.
- Determine outlet locations and load requirements
– Count the number of power points and estimate what appliances will be plugged in (e.g. fridge, computer, heater).
– Calculate total expected load to confirm the existing circuit (10 A or 20 A) is sufficient. - Check mounting heights and clearances
– AS/NZS 3000 Clause 4.5 mandates a minimum of 300 mm from finished floor level to the centre of the socket.
– Verify there’s no obstruction behind the wall (e.g. plumbing or structural steel) by using a stud-finder or endoscope. - Gather tools and materials
– Measuring tape and spirit level to mark exact box positions.
– Planning diagram showing distances to switches, windows, doors and other outlets.
– Correct wall boxes, faceplates, cable clamps and mounting screws. - Switchboard capacity and protection
– Confirm the switchboard has enough spare ways for additional circuits or RCDs.
– Plan for an additional RCD or dedicated circuit for high-load outlets if needed.
Step 2: Isolate Power
Safety is paramount—always prove the circuit is dead before you start.
- Lockout and tagout
– At the switchboard, switch off the relevant breaker (or remove the fuse).
– Apply a lock and tag to prevent accidental re-energisation by others. - Verify de-energisation
– Use a non-contact voltage tester on the supply cable to confirm no live voltage is present.
– Follow up with a two-pole voltage tester or multimeter to double-check both active and neutral conductors. - PPE and tools
– Wear insulated gloves and safety glasses.
– Keep lockout/tagout kit and voltage testers within reach.
Step 3: Prepare the Wall
A correctly-sized and positioned wall box ensures a neat, compliant installation.
- Cut the opening
– For new work, use a hole saw sized to the wall-box diameter (typically 75 mm).
– For renovations, carefully cut with a jab saw or chisel to avoid over-sized cavities. - Position and mount the wall box
– Ensure it sits flush with the finished plaster or render (use plaster-depth rings if needed).
– Secure with appropriate fixings: anchors for drywall, rawl plugs for masonry. - Protect cable entry points
– Fit cable clamps or grommets to prevent sheath damage.
– Seal conduit entries fully if using conduit.
Step 4: Run the Cable
Neat cable runs reduce faults and make future maintenance easier.
- Select the correct cable
– Use 2.5 mm² twin-and-earth (TPS) for standard 10 A circuits.
– For higher-load or longer runs, consider upsizing to 4 mm² or a 20 A circuit. - Routing methods
- Conduit in brick/concrete: Install rigid PVC conduit, then pull cable through before fixing the conduit.
- Free-run behind plasterboard: Staple cable every 450 mm, 50 mm from edges, using insulated clips.
- Leave adequate tails
– Pull at least 150 mm of cable into the box for easy termination and future testing.
Step 5: Wire the Socket
Correct termination and torque are critical for a reliable connection.
- Strip and prepare conductors
– Remove 10 mm of insulation from each core without nicking the copper.
– Fold back earth conductor for easy reach to the earth terminal. - Identify and connect terminals
– Active (Brown) → Terminal “A” or “L”.
– Neutral (Blue) → Terminal “N”.
– Earth (Green/Yellow) → Earth symbol terminal. - Secure with proper torque
– Tighten to 0.8–1.2 Nm per AS/NZS 3000 Clause 2.9.3 using a calibrated torque screwdriver.
Step 6: Test and Certify
Every installation must be verified and documented.
- Polarity: Confirm active and neutral are correct.
- Earth continuity: Resistance should be < 0.5 Ω.
- Insulation resistance: Megohmmeter reading > 1 MΩ.
- RCD trip test: Must trip within 300 ms at 30 mA.
- Voltage: 230–240 V between active and neutral under load.
- Certification: Issue a Certificate of Electrical Safety (COES) or CCEW with date, licence number and test results.
Step 7: Finalise and Clean
A professional finish leaves the site tidy and the client informed.
- Fit and secure the faceplate
– Tighten screws to ~0.5 Nm—firm but not cracking the plate. - Site clean-up
– Remove dust, off-cuts and tools; vacuum or wipe the area. - Client handover
– Explain safe operation, provide compliance certificate, answer questions, and advise on annual inspections.
Considerations by Wall Type
Installing power points on different wall materials requires adjusted methods and precautions. Below is a comprehensive breakdown:
Brick or Concrete Walls
- Tools Needed: Hammer drill, SDS masonry bits, chisel, wall box clamps, dust extractor
- Installation Tips:
- Mark and chase out the cavity to fit a flush box (usually 65 mm deep)
- Use masonry anchors or rawl plugs to fix mounting hardware
- Protect cabling using rigid conduit embedded into the wall
- Challenges:
- Time-consuming due to hard surfaces
- High dust levels require vacuum-assisted drilling
- Standard Requirements:
- Conduits must be used for embedded cables per Clause 3.9 of AS/NZS 3000:2018
Plasterboard or Drywall
- Tools Needed: Hole saw, stud finder, plaster clips, insulated cable guides
- Installation Tips:
- Locate studs and noggins to ensure a secure mount
- Use retrofit brackets or wall anchors to hold the GPO in place
- Feed cables through pre-drilled noggins and leave a 1.2 m loop for maintenance
- Challenges:
- Fragile surfaces prone to chipping and cracking
- Avoid overloading the plasterboard with heavy fittings
- Standard Requirements:
- Use of cable protection is mandatory per Clause 3.9.4 of AS/NZS 3000:2018
Timber Walls
- Tools Needed: Power drill, wood screws, flexible conduits, cable clamps
- Installation Tips:
- Mount directly to timber studs or use timber wall boxes
- Route cables along the timber grain or through pre-bored holes
- Challenges:
- Timber expansion/contraction can affect fitting tightness
- Must use sleeving to prevent fire risk in combustible materials
- Standard Requirements:
- Clause 3.3.2.6 (cable support and protection in timber structures)
Cavity Brick Walls
- Tools Needed: Long masonry drill bits, wall chasers, flexible conduit, torch
- Installation Tips:
- Drill through outer brick, run conduit inside cavity to internal wall
- Use silicone or foam to seal cable entry points against moisture
- Challenges:
- Moisture ingress and cavity bridging issues
- May require fish tape or cable rods for routing
- Standard Requirements:
- Conduits must be used to span cavities (Clause 3.9.3)
Metal Stud Walls
- Tools Needed: Grommets, metal snips, self-tapping screws, screwdriver
- Installation Tips:
- Cut plasterboard carefully to avoid burring metal edges
- Use protective grommets where cables pass through metal
- Challenges:
- Risk of cable damage from sharp edges
- May require additional grounding of metal framework
- Standard Requirements:
- Clause 3.5: Earthing requirements for conductive structures
Costs of Installing a Power Point in Australia
The total cost to install a power point can vary based on installation type, location complexity, and materials used. The following guide offers detailed pricing estimates:
Standard Pricing
Power Point Type | Approx. Cost (excl. GST) |
---|---|
Single GPO | $100–$250 |
Double GPO | $150–$300 |
Weatherproof GPO | $200–$400 |
USB-Integrated GPO | $150–$350 |
Industrial 15A–32A | $250–$550 |
Smart Power Point | $200–$450 |
Additional Cost Factors
Typical costs include:
- Labour: $80–$150 per hour
- Wall Material Surcharge:
- Brick/concrete: +$50–$100
- Cavity: +$75–$150
- Materials:
- Wall box: $5–$15
- Faceplate: $10–$30
- TPS cable: $2–$5 per metre
- Distance:
- Long cable runs (>10 m): $1–$2 per additional metre
- Callout Fee: $50–$100 (may be waived for larger jobs)
Australia’s Legal Requirements for Power Point Installation
Australian electrical work is governed by the AS/NZS 3000:2018 Wiring Rules, which outlines mandatory requirements for safe and compliant installations. Additional laws and licensing requirements vary by state or territory.
Key National Standards
- AS/NZS 3000:2018:
Wiring Rules that mandate RCDs, minimum socket heights, and testing protocols. - AS/NZS 3112:2017: Specifies design and safety standards for Australian socket-outlets.
- AS/NZS 60529:2004: Defines IP ratings for weatherproof points.
- AS/NZS 60950-1:2015: Regulates safety for USB-integrated outlets.
- AS/NZS 3123:2005: Covers industrial-grade socket-outlets.
- AS/NZS 4268:2017: Compliance for smart device radio equipment.
Licensing and Penalties
- Only licensed electricians (or supervised apprentices) can perform electrical work.
- Penalties vary by jurisdiction but can include fines over $50,000 and voided insurance.
State and Territory Regulations
Each region enforces national standards via local laws:
- NSW: NSW Fair Trading, Electricity (Consumer Safety) Act 2004
- VIC: Energy Safe Victoria, Electricity Safety Act 1998
- QLD: Electrical Safety Office, Electrical Safety Act 2002
- WA: Building and Energy WA, Electricity Act 1945
- SA: Office of the Technical Regulator, Electricity Act 1996
- TAS: CBOS, Electricity Industry Safety and Administration Act 1997
- ACT: Access Canberra, Electricity Safety Act 1971
- NT: NT WorkSafe, Electrical Safety Act 2022
Common Types of Power Points We Install
Each power point type serves a unique function depending on load demand, installation environment, and user convenience. Below is a deeper breakdown of the most common types:
1. Single Power Point
- Specs: 10A, 250V, single outlet
- Use Case: Ideal for low-load areas like bedrooms, hallways, or behind entertainment units.
- Variants:
- With or without a switch
- Slimline or standard plate
- Compliance: Must include earth pin and comply with AS/NZS 3112:2017
2. Double Power Point
- Specs: Dual 10A outlets, 250V
- Use Case: Suitable for kitchens, living rooms, home offices
- Variants:
- Independent switching
- Extra-wide plate for bulky adaptors
- Spacing Rule: Minimum 10 mm spacing required between outlets (AS/NZS 3112:2017)
3. Weatherproof Power Point
- Specs: IP53 to IP66 rated, typically 10A or 15A
- Use Case: Outdoor use—verandahs, workshops, BBQ areas
- Variants:
- Lockable covers
- Vertical or horizontal mount
- Compliance: Must meet AS/NZS 60529:2004 for moisture and dust ingress protection
4. USB-Integrated Power Point
- Specs: One or two 10A outlets with integrated USB ports (2.1A to 3.1A, 5V)
- Use Case: Ideal for bedrooms, kitchens, and offices to charge phones and tablets
- Variants:
- Single USB + Single GPO
- Quad USB + Double GPO
- Compliance: USB ports must meet AS/NZS 60950-1:2015 (IT equipment safety)
5. Industrial Power Point
- Specs: 15A, 20A, or 32A; 250V single-phase or 415V three-phase
- Use Case: High-load environments such as factories, garages, commercial kitchens
- Variants:
- IP66 enclosed units
- Interlocked isolator switches
- Compliance: Must meet AS/NZS 3123:2005 and feature heavy-duty construction
6. Smart Power Point
- Specs: 10A, Bluetooth/Wi-Fi controlled
- Use Case: Smart home integration—schedule-based automation, remote control via app
- Variants:
- Voice-controlled (e.g. Alexa, Google Assistant)
- With energy usage tracking
- Compliance: Requires AS/NZS 4268:2017 for radio communications safety
Power Point Installations in Perth
Our licensed electricians offer compliant and efficient power point installation in Perth and follow AS/NZS 3000 and WA Electrical Requirements for all work.
Whether you’re in Perth metro or regional WA, we deliver safe, professional service.
Contact us for a free quote today!